A brand new riesling for Steve Lubiana, wild yeast fermented in six year old puncheons to create a style of beautiful spice and texture, without oak flavour. The effect is captivating, with alluring focus and persistence and a rounded structure with nothing of the searing acid backbone that defines many dry Tasmanian rieslings. Pristine purity of kaffir lime, granny smith apple and pepper are retained, making for a fascinating comparison with Lubiana’s Blue Label from identical fruit. I can’t decide which I prefer. To the tune of just 1400 bottles, the Black has only just been released at cellar door this month.