There’s something very odd about the Penfolds new releases this year. What are the best red wine seasons of the past decades? Line ‘em up: ‘86, ‘88, ‘90, ‘91, ‘94, ‘96, ‘98, ‘99, ‘02, ‘04, ‘05, ‘06 and ‘08. With just three exceptions in a quarter of a century, it’s an odd pattern indeed. So what are we to make of a release centred around ’05, ’07 and ’09? Vintages certainly have their own unique styles and themes but for as long as we cling to the pattern we will miss the exceptions. And, oh my goodness, are there some exceptions among this year’s Penfolds releases.