Tahbilk marsanne is an institution. From estate vines now averaging thirty years of age, it’s charming straight out of the fermenter, it ages magically and it’s impressed me over four decades. 2011 is a particularly outstanding vintage, fresher and zestier than ever and carrying a wonderfully persistent texture. All the classic lemon and lime flavours are here, with hints of guava, custard apple and starfruit. $10 at Kemeny’s.
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