The 2004 Comtes brings back all the innocence of a joyful childhood, of scaling lemon and lime trees to plunder their tangy fruits, of a free-as-air dash through fields of daisies in endless blue daylight, of freshly roasted cashew nuts mounded in market baskets, and of a breathless plunge into an icy mountain rock pool. Then, nougat, pepper, gunflint and rising minerality of iceberg proportions. Such is the nervous tension, racy endurance and sheer stature of 2004 that it best be left until it at least attains adolescence. Do you really want to live forever, forever, forever? $295 at Kemenys.