Benoît Tarlant has sensitively honed every stage of viticulture and production to foster balance in his Zero Brut, aiming for an accuracy, purity and directness that he likens to playing darts. Flavour, not austerity, is a priority here, with ripe fruit, three reserve vintages and long bottle ageing creating balance and presence. The high acid 2007 season was not an easy base on which to build this style, calling for some chaptalisation, though the result is impressive. A fresh, lively and textural apéritif of generous yellow mirabelle plum fruit, pulled in tight by grapefruit and lime juice, emphasising chalk minerality on a crisp finish. $60 at WineStar.