The Willows Vineyard Barossa Valley Single Vineyard Semillon

in the right hands, semillon remains one of the great bargains of the Barossa. No hands are more deft with this variety than Peter and Michael Scholz, nurturing their seventy-six-year-old vines into a wine of characteristic lemon zest, talc and cut grass character. Toast, roast nuts and lanolin complexity are already building quickly, though it remains fresh, lively and evenly structured with crunchy acidity drawing out a long finish. A semillon of immediate appeal and good value. $16 at Wine Selectors.