The Wilson Vineyard Watervale Clare Valley Riesling

This is Wilson’s Watervale riesling, even though the front label also confusingly declares Polish Hill River (the location of the winery in this case, not the fruit). Pedantics aside, it’s true to the season, at once ripe, concentrated and bracingly structured, uniting the exotic generosity of golden delicious apple with a taut lemon zest backbone and pretty bouquet of lily blossom. It finishes long, clean and firm, with fine phenolic grip. Best price direct.