Thomas Kiss Shiraz

Kiss is a leading light in new age Hunter Shiraz, and 2010 is an outstanding example, capturing impressive fruit concentration within a refined, medium-bodied shell. There is wonderful intensity of enticingly pure black plum, black cherry and liquorice fruit, with a violet lift, yet at every moment restrained and calm, at a refreshing 13.5% alcohol. Oak shrinks into the background, propelling fruit upward and onward, into a very long finish. Fine-grained tannins possess a mineral texture, promising medium-term endurance, albeit an earlier drinking Kiss than 2009 and 2011. $46 at My Wine Store.