Thomas Wines Kiss Shiraz

There’s always a certain presence to Kiss, with a body that rises in stature above its siblings in Thommo’s range. The lively structure and firm, long-enduring tannins of 2011 tone this release considerably, quite controlled at 13.5% alcohol, yet carrying impressive concentration of crunchy blackberry and redcurrant fruit and pepper. This will be one of the long-lived wines of the vintage. $55 at Cellar d’Or.