Tyrrell’s Wines Vat 47 Hunter Valley Chardonnay

The wonderful energy, honed focused and acid drive of 2009 Hunter Valley is something to behold, and it looks set to propel one of the chardonnays of the vintage into the ranks of the longest-lived Vat 47s yet. Gunflinty and leesy, its taut mineral structure, impeccable fruit purity and understated oak make for consummate balance from day one, but don’t rush. $44 at The Tasting Room, $45 at 1st Choice.