Umamu is one of the great, though lesser known, estates of Margaret River. Three things jump out as remarkable about this release. First, that it’s so wonderfully harmonious, elegant, immaculately poised and understated for a warm season. Second, that it’s so backward and youthful for its pending release at an incredible six years of age. Finally, that it can pull all this off at a price that looks uncharacteristically affordable for Margaret River. This was the top red wine of the estate in the 2007 vintage, though a higher priced straight cabernet has since been introduced. In 2007, the best fruit of these old vines has built focused blackcurrant character, evolving to become roast capsicum. It’s retained its vibrant crunch and beautifully integrated, finely textured, gravelly tannins. $27 at Cracka.