Heytesbury is a more profound expression of the direction of modern Margaret River chardonnay than perhaps any other, capturing the fruit power of the region and encasing it in high-tensile structure, overlaid with funky gunflint and sulphide notes. This is winemaking on the edge: massive volumes of solids in the ferment, wild yeast and more new oak than ever. The result of this maelstrom is profound: at once chiselled, brittle and cracking and at the same time resonating with low notes of funky, savoury complexity. Its taut acidity bursts through the finish, defining a tense frame of tangy, lemon-infused persistence and soft, finely-crafted mineral texture. $45 at Our Cellar.