In the context of the grand 39 year history of this label, this is a powerful release, yet consummately balanced in every proportion. Northern Margaret River cabernet is the focus, beautifully expressive of the fragrant violets, deep blackcurrants and graphite-like texture that sets apart this area as one of the finest cabernet zones outside Bordeaux. Classy French oak (a touch over half brand new) contributes a refined backdrop of high cocoa dark chocolate oak and a firm, fine undercurrent of impeccably structured tannins. A dense core of blackcurrant fruit holds vibrancy and enduring potential. $33 at Aussie Wines, Nillumbik Cellars, No Frills Wine and Wine List Australia.