Vela Rias Baixas Albariño

Albariño is the perky little Spanish white we thought we grew here, but didn’t. Here’s the real thing, and it thrashes the more expensive contenders that tend to be too old and under cork. Young, fresh and screw capped, it’s soft and spicy, with apple and pear fruit finishing crunchy and pure. $18 at Sunshine Creek & WineStar, $19 at Emporium.