Veuve Clicquot’s Vintage Rosé’s ideal is for the grapes to speak, and La Grande Dame Rosé’s ideal is for the soil to speak. And speak it does, with an avalanche of tumbling fury of chalk minerality from the five loftiest grand crus of the Montagne de Reims and Côte des Blancs. Clos Colin delivers a red wine of folkloric magnificence, building a medium salmon hue and orange tint. It swoops and dives with red cherry and raspberry freshness, and acrobatics of truffles, orange rind, anise, vanilla and kirsch. Delivering such formidable power while sustaining arresting finesse is one of Champagne’s highest arts, captured here in a melodramatic juxtaposition of complexity and freshness. $550 at Stewarts.