Champagne’s antiquated cru classification dictates that every vineyard in a village is classified at the same level, so even the very finest sites in a premier cru like Vertus cannot attain grand cru status. From old vineyards in the heart of Vertus, this premier cru is built around a purity and depth of fruit of grand cru proportions. White peach, yellow plums, grapefruit, and mixed spice, it’s all here in its enticingly pure glory and its profound mineral texture, hauntingly reminiscent of the grand cru of Le Mesnil-sur-Oger (next door). Its all-pervading minerality propels its fruit upward and drives its finish very long indeed. Quite a contrast to the weaker 2005 vintage, the oak sits decisively in the background here. An impressive 2006, and sensational value for money. $80 at WineStar.