Vieux Télégraphe Châteauneuf-du-Pape

The little hub of Châteauneuf-du-Pape is the epicentre of the southern Rhone, Vieux Télégraphe is one of its star estates, and 2008 is the most pure expression I’ve seen. Exotic spice, cherry liqueur and cumquat aromas introduce a brilliantly honed, chiselled and textured palate of deep-set black fruits and glimmers of exotics. $130 at WineStar, $140 at Wine Emporium.