Bill Downie reckons it isn’t trendy to make pinot from the Yarra Valley floor at the moment, but he considers the fruit of the densely planted Denton vineyard in Yarra Glen to be outstanding. It’s the only vineyard in the region on granite, which he says accounts for a flinty mineral line through the palate. In 2012 the vines reached ten years of age, accentuating a deep, textural and characterful mouth feel with each passing season, and this is probably the best yet. It’s at once elegant, perfumed and delicate in its remarkable rose hip bouquet, and at the same time a wine of deep fruit presence of sour morello cherries and tangy cranberries. A savoury allure of forest floor and brambles brings refinement and intrigue. Tannins are mouth-embracing, finely structured and ethereally silky, promising endurance in the cellar. $60 at WineStar.