Wynns Black Label is an institution in bargain Australian cabernet, and while it’s jumped from $35 two years ago to $40 last year and now $45, its the street price hasn’t changed – still regularly $25 (Jim Murphy’s, Dan Murphy’s, No Frills, Aussie Wines, Wine List Australia and Chambers Cellars). The latest rendition is a triumph for this difficult, wet season, a wine of considerable concentration of structure, impeccably craftsmanship and enduring longevity. It’s a savoury, structured and tightly-coiled version, sustaining impressive depth and varietal integrity in its blackcurrant, roast capsicum and tobacco core, and considerable structure of firm, finely textured tannins.