Wynns Coonawarra Estate Black Label Cabernet Sauvignon

Black Label has legendary longevity (I’m still awaiting 1994s in my cellar) and the tight 2009 vintage pulls it away from the overt, expressive styles of late and back to the classic, monumentally structured demeanour of old. Sinewy, taut dark berry fruits lurk. $20 at Kemeny’s, $22 at Dan’s, $24 at WineStar.