Wynns Coonawarra Estate Glengyle Cabernet Sauvignon

I’ve always noted an edginess to the early-ripening Glengyle vineyard, packed with distinctive notes that venture into the greener spectrum of cabernet: capsicum, tobacco leaf, cedar, even fennel. There’s no question of its ripeness here, with the palate revving up to quite some fruit power of ripe blackcurrants. My reservation is based on oak, which is more prominent here than in any other recent Wynns release, firm, dusty, even a little charry, and quashing fruit expression a little more than necessary. It’s built for the long haul, certainly, and its fruit core promises great things when it does shake its oak, but that will not be for a long time indeed. 1 August 2012 release.