Wynns Coonawarra Estate Michael Limited Release Shiraz

Treasury Wine Estate’s philosophy of inflating Michael’s price alongside John Riddoch is daring. As distinguished as Michael may be, he’s consistently outclassed by his sibling, making a 67% price rise over two years look like too much to pay. The 2010 is a complex and savoury style, taking quite some time for black plum, dark berry and violet fragrance to emerge from a background of game, charcuterie, black pepper and liquorice. It’s built around an impressively taut and fine frame of well-structured tannins, supporting great persistence. Carrying the concentration and depth of the season, it manages to retain impressive poise and effortless style. $110 at Jim’s Cellars.