Yabby Lake Block 6 Chardonnay

Sheer determination and seamless calm characterise the personality of Block Six in 2010, quite a paradox as it takes full advantage of taut malic acidity to maintain a high-tensile focus, yet without the searing disjointedness that marks so many that attempt this edgy style. Sensational drive and energy of pure lemon, white peach and grapefruit zest forms a backdrop to layered, lees-derived complexity of enticing struck flint and matchstick. Mineral texture is fine and delicate yet full and mouthfilling, making way for astounding persistence. $71 at Dan Murphy’s.