Yalumba Eden Valley Viognier

Yalumba’s EV Viognier looks more like Virgilius all the time, which Louisa Rose puts down to increasing vine age, sourced largely from vineyards planted in the eighties and early nineties. Full wild fermentation, two-thirds in old French oak barrels, has got to help, too. A classy new label sets off the 2013 impeccably. A vintage of presence and depth, with delightful layers of textural mouth feel, accented with well managed and subtle bitter phenolic texture. Zesty grapefruit, contrasts rich white peach, apricot and mealy notes. $21 at Wine Box Warehouse.