Yarra Burn Premium Cuvée Brut

For the price, there’s an awful lot packed into this wine. Bucket loads of lees age (based on the 2010 vintage) and 5% oak maturation make for silkiness and complexity, but the focus remains resolutely on primary citrus, apple and pear fruit. The result equates to heights of character, texture and appeal rarely found at this price. There’s a little more candied dosage than it needs, but it’s more than forgiven, particularly at $12 at Jim Murphy’s at $13 at Dan Murphy’s.