‘I say 10% of the blend is from my blood!’ declares Jean-François Clouet, who has changed the style of his family’s rosé to a fresher and more direct mood, not so soft, aiming for the lively impression of malic acidity, even though it goes through full malolactic fermentation. The result is a rosé that epitomises elegance and focus, in the midst of the generous red fruits that characterise his villages of Bouzy and Ambonnay. This cuvée encapsulates that wonderful talent of pinot noir to build and rise on the finish, opening to wonderful characters of perfumed rosehip, pink pepper and pomegranate. An undercurrent of fine, chalk mineral texture, accurate line and persevering length define a pristine and enticingly priced rosé. $75 At Prince Wine Store and Rathdowne Cellars.