Richard Bates reckons the Barossa needs to rediscover medium weight reds, so he picks a couple of weeks earlier than most. This wine is made at Spinifex with Pete Schell, whom Bates rightly describes as a “magician.” More than a little Schell magic has rubbed off here, in subtle nuances of mixed spice, lifted violet perfume and a pretty textural elegance that glides through the palate. There’s no shortage of classic 2011 black pepper, and signature Barossa blackberry and black plum fruit, too. Barossa shiraz of approachable restraint and understated enticement – bring it on! $21 at East End Cellars.