Ashton Hills Chardonnay

This is benchmark Adelaide Hills chardonnay of understated effortlessness and harmonious restraint, yet somehow, remarkably, still delightfully intense with grapefruit, lime, white peach and fig. It displays an air of charcuterie complexity and a delightful texture that marries lees-derived complexity with the inimitable chalky mineral definition of this cool, high vineyard. A wine of enduring length, undeviating line and great longevity. $37 at WineStar and World Wine.