Announcing one of the finest expressions of a particularly unique and idiosyncratic Australian pinot. I am not always an advocate of generous inclusion of stalks in pinot ferments, but this release will go down as a benchmark for what full inclusion of whole bunches can bring to a wine, while upholding full integrity of fruit and structure. Light on its feet and elegantly bodied, this is quite an achievement for a concentrated vintage that yielded an infinitesimal 250g per vine – four vines per bottle – and just 250 dozen in all. It’s ethereal, exotic and dramatically fragrant, a wild collision between a spice cart and a florist shop. Dried herbs, dried flowers, pipesmoke, cocoa, incense and Campari are underlined by elegant strawberry and raspberry fruit, laced together with silky tannins on a refreshing finish. $90 at WineStar.