Bird on a Wire Yarra Valley Syrah

Four separate batches treated differently in the winery may seem overkill for a total production of just 118 dozen, but the result is a wine which sings with the hand-made purity of a master craftsman. The texture is multi-dimensional, at once confident and at the same time soft, with a seamless purity of gravelly tannins. Its fruit captures the purity of sour plums, blueberries and black cherries, with haunting persistence and deceptive longevity. $40 direct.