The magnificent 2008 base vintage is the first Bollinger Rosé to land in its ultrasophisticated 1846 bottle, adorned with a breathtakingly stylish new label and neck label, making this new blend’s arrival impossible to miss. Working its magic again, 2008 brings electric acidity, charging it with great freshness of structure and grand chalk mineral presence. In spite of higher acidity, chef de cave Mathieu Kauffmann has tactically wound back the dosage just a touch, in the hope of confirming a style of greater elegance. It meets the brief with effortless grace, a pale salmon hue with a tint of pink, singing with delightful purity and freshness of rose petals, strawberry hull and white cherries over a backdrop of classic Bollinger complexity of nougat and mixed spice. Testimony to the power of just 5% red wine in transforming the Special Cuvée blend. $110 at Champagne Gallery.