Charles Heidsieck Millesime Brut

This accurate and enticing edition of the generous and rounded 2000 vintage was impressive on release a couple of years ago, and has since evolved to an even more comfortable demeanour. Juicy golden peaches have become baked peaches, dried fruits and figs, with a rising background of butterscotch, patisserie, woodsmoke, toast and even truffles. Its long, spice-accented finish is underlined with soft minerality. A calm and contemplative champagne for long conversations on cool nights. $150 at Cracka.