Brown Brothers has sold its historic Whitlands vineyard to Domaine Chandon, to instead focus sparkling production in Tasmania. There’s no question Tassie is the most exciting frontier for fine fizz in the country, but Whitlands has made some of the best sparkling wines on the mainland, and this is the last from Brown Brothers. It’s a fitting finale, layered with bottle developed complexity of roast nuts, honey, brioche and nougat, yet retaining the signature of this Alpine foothills site in its fine core of pear and apple fruit. Subtle phenolic grip works comfortably with tight acid line of the finish, offset by well balanced dosage. A wine of character, craftsmanship and a special sense of place. $36 at First Choice.