Wayne Dutschke captures fruit expression as exactingly as anyone in the Barossa right now and 2008 is the greatest vintage to ever emerge from his infamous shed at Lyndoch. St Jakobi is powerful, ripe and profoundly concentrated, a concoction of preserved plums, stewed rhubarb and lifted violets.

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Is 2008 Margaret River’s finest season ever? Never has a season produce cabernet of such precision. Only 2009 may challenge the throne. Xanadu is a wine for the long-haul, with a sensational core of blackcurrant and tobacco, overlaid with Bordeaux-lookalike seaspray and enticing savoury complexity.

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