Le Mesnil sur Oger is the supernova of the blanc de blancs firmament and Bernard Launois lays claim to a generous chunk of it. His ultra-refreshing aperitif captures the minerality of the Côte des Blancs; restrained citrus and toast are supported by a balancing brush of delicate sweetness.

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The cool 2010 season places this among Clonakilla’s most sophisticated viogniers. It’s exactingly put together, contrasting moods of textural and silky, creamy and taut, linear and mouth-filling. Apricot kernel, brioche, pear, vanilla bean and custard apple unite in seamless harmony. $45 at WineStar and www.clonakilla.com.au.

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