Every time I look, the refinement of De Bortoli’s Yarra Valley operation has further infiltrated its Riverina headquarters. This brand new bargain basement chardonnay is a celebration of this philosophy, infused with the vibrant tang of cool 2011 vintage acidity. A zesty, refreshing style, singing with grapefruit, lemon zest and white peach. Best price direct.

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Rob Mann quietly mentioned to me recently that he reckons 2011 to represent the finest reds he’s made in Margaret River yet. A monumental statement, considering the mesospheric standards he has set in 2008, 2009 and 2010. We’ll have to wait until next year for the full answer, but if Marmaduke is any indication, there […]

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Predominantly from the cooler southern half of Margaret River, this delightfully refined sauvignon is one of Georgiana’s most gracious expressions yet. A beautiful perfume of fragrant elegance focuses in on granny smith apple, grapefruit and lemon blossom. The palate faithfully continues the theme of honed, zesty poise and consummate restraint. $13 at Amatos.

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Definitive Margaret River SBS of laser-like precision, sensational restraint and beautifully defined acidity. An elegant and fragrant bouquet of lemon blossom glides into a taut, honed palate that zones in on lime zest, crunchy granny smith apples and electric acidity. One-tenth fermented in barrels does nothing to interrupt its purity, but builds drive and longevity. […]

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The evidence for the stature of 2011 at Cape Mentelle is mounting, and this wine perfectly straddles the fence between generous fruit expression and enduring, graphite-like tannin texture. From the outset, it’s definitive Margaret River cabernet (with some merlot and dashes of cabernet franc and petit verdot). A bouquet of coffee bean, high cocoa dark […]

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Oh, how I love 2010 Yarra reds! The varietal integrity on show here is bang-on. Fragrant violets, blackcurrants, capsicum, freshly picked tomatoes, tobacco leaf and high cocoa dark chocolate – you name it, this wine has it. Everything is set against an expertly crafted backbone of superfine, firmly structured tannins of dusty, graphite-like precision. At […]

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Inclusion of stalks in ther ferment of Yarra shiraz is a delicate art, finding a balance of exotic spice and texture, without diminishing the expression of fruit and sense of place. Dave Bicknell has gauged it just right here, with the anise, sarsaparilla and cola of whole bunches coalescing seamlessly with the supple, generous fruit […]

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Here comes another benchmark Wallcliffe, at once seductively seamless and silky and at the same time bracingly structured. Fermented in one-third new French oak barrels, it’s a captivating interplay of remarkable complexity, encased in a beautifully polished and seamless shell, spanning coffee beans, capsicum, hazelnuts, preserved lemon, even linden blossom. The palate is the epitome […]

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Like a tightly-coiled spring ready to slowly unravel, this is a cabernet blend crafted for the long-haul. Closed up tight, it presents an intricately honed structure of fruit and oak tannins colliding to produce a refined, graphite-like texture which builds on the finish. Crunchy blackcurrant fruits hover amidst tangy acidity of long-lingering intensity. $39 at […]

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A chardonnay of consummate elegance and grace and yet exactingly high tensile structure, encapsulating the mood of the season in its intricately fine, mineral structure, razor-edged acidity and a finish even longer than its name. Immense complexity of struck flint and charcuterie underline subtle purity of lemon and grapefruit on the bouquet. The palate carries […]

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