Clonakilla Canberra District Viognier

Gone is viognier’s usual exuberant, flamboyant and pungent personality, replaced with a more contemplative demeanour. Subdued by the restraint of the season, there’s a honed lemon zest accent and a crunchy, savoury texture reminiscent of almost ripe apricots, supported by suggestions of meal, apricot kernel and vanilla custard. It lacks nothing in persistence, texture or intrigue. $45 direct.