Cloudy Bay Pelorus Brut

Insightful Cloudy Bay winemaker Nick Lane admits that Marlborough has fruit in spades, so his challenge is to create tension in this wine. He’s nailed it here more confidently than I remember in Pelorus, uniting the layered, biscuity complexity of a little old barrel fermentation, up to two years on lees and a deep resource of reserve wines, with a core of lemon, pear and golden delicious apple fruit and a taut tail of tense acidity. A low dosage of 7.5g/L of sweetness is perfectly gauged to keep the finish refreshing. Pelorus is now one of New Zealand’s best value sparklings. $24 at Jim’s Cellars.