Cloudy Bay Te Koko
Te Koko is on a steep trajectory of ascent, finer, more harmonious and more expressive than ever, yet it’s the tiny details that have made the difference. The core of its personality remains untouched, but, in the words of maker Nick Lane, it’s been pared back in palate gregariousness. He says taking it from ten percent new oak to eight percent has made a bigger difference that you might imagine, and he’s dead right – the fruit has never looked better, nor the oak more subdued. This wine epitomises sauvignon’s ability to somehow harmonise electric energy with unfathomable complexity. There are perfumed florals here, mixed spice, gooseberry pie, custard apple, preserved lemon, lantana, woodspice, hazelnut cream, dried herbs, stone fruits and citrus of all kinds. Phew! Crucially, it retains honed focus, thanks to crunchy acid definition and outstanding line and length. $43 at The Glass.
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