Say what you will about biodynamics, but Cullen’s six most recent releases average an uncontested 95/100 on my score sheet. DM is the queen, and in 09 she has ascended to hitherto unknown heights of restraint. At just 12.5% alcohol she is no blockbuster, but more elegantly poised and yet impeccably ripe than ever. Crunchy blackcurrant, violets, dust, coffee, tobacco, tomato and a wistful hint of the sea all lie in coiled suspense under the surface, with oak sitting dutifully in the background. An immaculately crafted DM that will go down among the greatest and longest-lived yet. $95 at Kemeny’s & Dan Murphy’s.