Cullen Vineyard Sauvignon Blanc Semillon

Cullen vineyard has established a triumphant benchmark for Australian SBS, articulately expressing a unique and pronounced mineral structure. With an almost two-thirds lead of sauvignon blanc, matured for six months in French oak (two-thirds new), one would expect fruit power and heavy structure. Remarkably, it is quite the contrary, backward, floral, understated, crunchy and fine. Spicy grapefruit, crunchy lemon zest and apple contrast with wonderfully balanced and subtle hazelnut complexity. A triumph. $29 at Discount Wines, The Tasting Room and Cellar d’Or.