There is an ever-widening chasm between “those” Marlborough sauvignons and the select few that strive for an inherent sophistication and a calm sense of control. Thanks to low cropping, hand picking, whole bunch pressing, a portion of natural ferment and fanatical attention to every molecule, Dog Point ranks among the most reliable of the latter set. This is exemplified in 2011 by a palate that pulls into tightly focused granny smith apple and grapefruit flavours, with a grapefruit pith texture. A year on, it’s still as fresh as ever and will not fade any time soon. $20 at NZ Wine Online.