Tash Mooney named her business “Wine Architect” because structure and shape count more to her than surface finishes. When I visited recently, she lined up 2004 Uncles with 2010, just to demonstrate her progress toward more honed restraint. There’s no question one of the Barossa’s most insightful winemakers has maintained a steep trajectory of refinement. It’s only a shame more drinkers don’t understand the virtues of lower alcohol styles. For a winemaker of such exacting standards, it’s not often that Tash is satisfied with her wines, so it’s a massive statement when she says she’s happy with this one. Rightfully so. One of the finest Eight Uncles yet, this is a wine that meets dense black plum and cherry fruit and layers of spice with a restrained, crunchy vibrancy, reinforced by fine, mouthfilling, textural structure. It’s a travesty that all this can be yours for just $13.50 at 1st Choice.