A grand statement of the longevity of Gosset, this wine has barely moved since its release two years earlier. All the more remarkable that a bottle disgorged more than five years ago could be even more superlative today. The sustaining power of malic acidity is immense indeed. The Celebris label reveals nothing of its vintage composition, which is a shame, because it reads like a roll call of the heroes of the 1990s (1999, 1998, 1996 and 1995), infusing the palate with the lacy web of chalk mineral texture that embodies grand cru chardonnay. At an average age of more than 15 years, its presence is monumental and its complexity mind-blowing, a lively throng of dried fruits, succulent stone fruits, preserved lemon, anise and nutmeg, pulled into line dutifully by a wonderfully taut finish of malic acidity and immaculately honed, silky structure. $220 at Bellevue Hill.