There is a vast disparity between an early release Marlborough sauvignon that has sat on the shelves a year too long and a late release that has been carefully crafted with stamina in mind. Huia epitomises the latter, impressively primary and backward in its development at a full year-and-a-half of age. It upholds a youthful, pale straw-green hue and a crunchy profile of blackcurrant bud, lemon and lime zest and fresh golden delicious apples. A portion wild fermented in old French oak barrels has contributed refinement, texture and persistence, while an elongated, honed tail of clean, tense acidity promises a long future. $22 at Jim’s and Nick’s.