Jacques Selosse Initiale Grand Cru Blanc de Blancs Brut

Initiale is the most accessible and most affordable cuvée of Anselme Selosse’s inherently inaccessible and unaffordable range of cult grower champagnes. It represents more than two-thirds of his production and can be notoriously inconsistent, but this bottle purchased at his restaurant was stunning. Grand complexity is painted in broad brushstrokes of fig, marmalade, preserved lemon, glacé peach, mixed spice, even christmas cake. Yet it is at once focused, linear and well defined, declaring fine chalk minerality and great persistence.