The Champenois say the most distinguishing feature of champagne is its ability to retain finesse with age. Achieving this in Australia is perhaps the holy grail of sparkling winemaking, and Jansz has nailed it here. At almost a decade of age, its Late Disgorged has spent eight years on lees (double that of the regular release), building layers of butter and roast almonds, retaining its youthful fig, mirabelle plum and grapefruit vitality. It’s beautifully textured and wonderfully honed, with a silky and chalky mineral structure, intricately interwoven acidity and impeccable integration of low dosage. $45 at Discount Wines, Aussie Wines, Wine List Australia, No Frills and Sydney Wine Merchants.