Kilikanoon Clare Valley Mort’s Reserve Watervale Riesling

I am hopelessly besotted with the classic, fine-strung purity that so many Clare rieslings have achieved in 2011, and here is another! A wine of great fruit concentration and structure, built around a core of intense lemon and lime zest, with notes of red apple and quince. It builds incrementally in the mouth, to great levels of fruit impact, riding on a razor-sharp edge of bracing acidity that will delivery it to a wonderful place in years to come. $29 at Discount Wines.