A cool frozen lime focus portrays a cooler demeanour than usual for this dry season, capturing impeccably gauged fruit ripeness in intense aromas and flavours of granny smith apple, lemon blossom and kaffir lime spice. There’s plenty of texture and structure to back this up, with a finely mineral Watervale mouth feel and a little more subtle, bitter grip of phenolic texture than I’d like, but it’s got the fruit intensity to hold it confidently, finishing with excellent line and length. Mort’s Reserve is not strictly Mort’s Block, rather a blend with Khileyre vineyard. $29 at Cellar d’Or.