Kooyong Clonale Chardonnay

The great vintages expose the poor winemakers but it takes a tough season to define the most skilful. Sandro Mosele needs to prove nothing, but his masterful talent is certainly on parade in a delicately focused Clonale of pristine grapefruit blossom and white peach purity, underlined by fresh almond nuances. The complexity of lees contact is perfectly controlled for the subtlety and grace of its honed fruit profile, which meshes seamlessly with finely poised texture, lingering grapefruit zest and refreshing, cool vintage acidity. $20 at 1st Choice.